Today, we'll be talking about a Finnish man whose family doesn't come from a watchmaking background: Kari Voutilainen. He's one of the most respected names in independent watchmaking. He founded Voutilainen in Môtiers, Switzerland, in 2002. Despite being a young brand, its watches have garnered considerable attention, garnering numerous GPHG awards, and continue to do so. Let's take a look at Kari's and the brand's story.
The Story of Kari Voutilainen
A watchmaker friend of his father's was one of the main reasons that led Kari to become a watchmaker. A bout of anxiety there led him to the Kelloseppäkoulu watchmaking school in Finland. After graduating, he worked in a watch shop for about a year, but realizing he wanted more, he moved to Switzerland in 1988 to participate in the WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program) restoration program. After completing his studies, Kari returned to Helsinki and began working as an independent restorer. During that year, he worked long hours and learned to be organized.
He later returned to Switzerland to attend the renowned complications course he had discovered during the WOSTEP program. After completing this course, which allowed him to master the details of the most complex calibers, he was ready to work and develop at a larger company. He was scheduled to begin working at Vacheron Constantin after completing the course, but things went awry and his visa couldn't be finalized in time, so Karl began his Swiss career in 1990 at Michel Parmigiani's restoration workshop. He worked there until 1999, during which time he also produced his first watch. This nine-year period marked the rise of the first independent watchmakers and their establishment in the watchmaking world. AHCI became recognized at Baselworld.
After leaving Parmigiani in 1999, he returned to WOSTEP, where he had studied, this time to teach. During this time, he developed his skills and began to accumulate a wealth of equipment. No longer able to fit into his home, he rented a workshop. Armed with his accumulated experience, his growing independent watchmaking tradition, and his vision, he took the final step and founded Voutilainen in 2002.
Voutilainen's Story
After its founding in 2002, Voutilainen initially produced watches for other brands. He believed this was the best way to remain independent. He also produced watches for himself. He also produced these watches for brands like LeCoultre and Longines. draftHe took advantage of these. Karl ébauchHe completed the e's with extensive modification, rearrangement and hand workmanship and used them in his watches.
Draft what?
It is a French term. In watchmaking, it refers to a machine frame that is not yet finished or processed. raw mechanism We can define it as. In other words, it is a mechanism that has the main parts, but high-level workmanship, arrangements, some parts or decoration are incomplete.
The brand first introduced its watches at Baselworld in 2005 and just two years later Observatoire won the first GPHG award with its model. Since then, it has received ten more GPHG awards in different years. So, what brought this success?
The Secret to Voutilainen's Success
The short answer is their high technical skills and Kari's approach to his work. First, let's look at the more technical and production side of things. Voutilainen is a brand with a very high standard when it comes to design and craftsmanship. They produce pieces with intricate and exquisite craftsmanship, some would say on a par with Patek Philippe.
Their annual production capacity is approximately 50 units. mainspring (spring), hairspring (balance spring) and Jewels's (precious stones) except in-house They make it in-house. This gives them independence and freedom. "We determine the quality; we're not dependent on suppliers," says Kari. All of this is done by a very small team. Most of the watches are limited-edition or one-off special projects.
At the heart of most of its watches is the unusual and first of the brand, introduced in 2011. in-house There are variants of the Caliber 28, which has a movement. Caliber 28 could be the subject of an article on its own. Therefore, I won't go into detail now, but I recommend movement enthusiasts to take a look. So, how do you get the same caliber? GMT, chronograph, tourbillon And can watches with other complications be produced? Good question. When Kari first developed the Calibre 28, he intentionally left additional space on the base plate and under the dial to accommodate various complications. This made it possible for customers to integrate various complications into their watches based on their requests.
On the other hand, Kari is not only a good watchmaker but also a very good businessman. Voutilainen There is no marketing or sales department. Despite this, it is one of the brands whose watches are popular, but due to limited production capacity, there is often a waiting period of a year or more for orders.
Voutilainen handles the watch order directly when a customer wants to order it, speaks to the press when they inquire, and packs the watches when they're ready for delivery. Whether it's the mechanical, aesthetic, or other aspects, he handles everything himself and leaves no room for chance.
One of the best things about Kari is that he has no intention of increasing production volume or taking on investment partners. He wants to maintain control and complete independence, focusing on handmade quality, craftsmanship, and innovation. The following quotes speak volumes about him.
"I saw independent watchmakers and companies grow rapidly, and suddenly everything changed. We need to enjoy our daily lives. Today, I can do that sitting at my workbench. I'd prefer it to stay that way."
Voutilainen 28CG
There are three different Voutilainen models nominated for the GPHG awards this year. Let's take a look at the details of my favorite, the 28CG, which was nominated in the women's category.
One of the first things that catches your eye in the 28CG model is the guilloche dial. This time it's handcrafted guilloche We see the patterns not only on the dial but also on the case and crown. The 37mm diameter rose gold case has a concave bezel and this time, the Voutilainen teardrop It features flat horns instead of (teardrop) horns. The watch, which features surfaces that dance with light, features an open caseback. Here, you can witness the exquisite appearance and details of the manually wound Caliber 28, which has a 65-hour power reserve. The watch is 11.3mm thick and water-resistant to 30 meters.
The watch resembles Breguet hands Observatoire The hands and numerals elevate its elegant presence to an even higher level. The hand-stitched calfskin strap completes the watch beautifully.
- These arms are among the most difficult to produce and consist of three separate components: a shaft, a round ring, and an arrowhead. Voutilainen typically prefers to make the shaft and tip from gold, and the ring from blue steel.
Kari wants his watches to have a classic and clean design, yet still be unique. This is evident in this model. The dial may be a bit too patterned or complex for some. That's understandable, but I'm sure it's a real pleasure to see this craftsmanship in person and wear it on your wrist. The price you'll have to pay to experience this pleasure is 125,000 CHF.
Independent watchmaking continues its rise, taking the world to new heights. I hope Kari and others like him will continue to fuel our passion and inspire admiration for many years to come. We'll certainly be discussing many more brands in this field; we're just getting started. See you in the next article.
