Many people ask, "Are those colors real?" when they see Studio Underdog watches for the first time. The real surprise is this: Studio Underdog (the brand name is deliberately spelled with a "0") doesn't just make fun dials; it also consciously subverts the classic rules of the watch world with its movement, QC (Quality Control), and sales model.
What is Studio Underd0g and why is it so talked about in the watch world?
Studio Underd0g is a UK-based microbrand founded in 2021 by product designer Richard Benc, centering on a “serious watch/fun story” approach. The brand differentiates itself by combining design humor with technical discipline and growing through a community-focused sales model.
You will see this clearly in three places:
- Design language: Food themes (like Watermelon, Mint Ch0c Chip) and a narrative that "seriously pokes fun at things".
- Technical selection: In the 01 SERIES, there was a “budget-friendly but mechanically interesting” column wheel chronograph like the Seagull ST-1901B; in 02/03, a move to a higher segment with the Sellita.
- Operation: "The sales window opens, there's no stock race; the window closes, the delivery plan works" is the logic.
Why is “Studio Underd0g” spelled with a “0”?
The brand uses the character "0" in its name as a deliberate play. Richard Benc explains that the addition of the "0" is a playful detail referencing the numerical requirement of modern passwords; hence the brand name "Underd0g".
This small detail also summarizes the brand's overall strategy: Creating a strong character through small design decisions.
How did the Studio Underd0g story begin and grow?
The Studio Underdog story begins with a “design brief” written in response to the lack of color and fun during the pandemic: “To make a watch that is serious but doesn’t take itself too seriously.”
Critical turning points:
- Summer 2020: Benc shares his initial designs with enthusiastic communities and receives strong feedback.
- March 2021: Studio Underd0g officially launches its first collection. 01 Series Chronograph Okay (references to 1960s chronographs + food themes).
- Community and special editions: Special editions in collaboration with Dubai-based Perpétuel Gallery (Hamdan Al Hudaidi) enhance the brand's global visibility.
- Collection expansion: The 02 SERIES introduced the "field watch" technology; the 03 SERIES featured a monopusher chronograph and a more advanced Sellita platform.
Today, the brand has established an unusual network on a "microbrand scale" with its core series and collaborations with companies such as Fears Watch Company, Massena LAB, and H. Moser & Cie.
What watch series does Studio Underd0g consist of?
Studio Underd0g watches are read under three main series:
- 01SERIES: Hand-wound, bi-compax chronograph + tachymeter; current with ST-1901B in Gen3.
- 02SERIES: Hand-wound, time-only field watch; “Dirty Dozen” spirit + modern sandwich/sapphire dial architecture.
- 03SERIES: Hand-wound monopusher Chronograph; Sellita SW510 M with a higher-end mechanical package.
Why is the 01SERIES Gen3 so popular?
01SERIES, Studio Underd0g's "icon" series: it takes the 1960s chronograph form and makes it fun without sacrificing its seriousness, using food-themed dials. With the Gen3, the brand both improves ergonomics and tightens the regulation of the movement.
Key practical technical aspects of the 01SERIES Gen3:
- Dimensions: 38.5mm diameter, 12.9 mm Thickness: 44.5mm lug to lug, 20mm lug.
- Water resistance: 5 ATM (a reasonable value for daily splashing; risky for swimming).
- Mechanism: Bespoke Seagull ST-1901B21,600 bph; 50-hour power reserve with chronograph off, 45-hour with chronograph on; target power reserve of -10/+15 seconds/day.
- Gen3 differences: Case thickness (13.6 -> 12.9), smoother winding feel with a thicker crown, larger sapphire case back, "Assembled in Great Britain" inscription on the dial.
What was ST-1901B, and why was it a "major event"?
The ST-1901B is positioned as a bespoke, hand-wound column wheel chronograph variant exclusive to Studio Underd0g, derived from Tianjin Sea-Gull's ST-1901/ST19 family. This family is known for offering a premium feel like a column wheel at a relatively low cost in the world of accessible mechanical chronographs.
There are two layers that make the ST-1901B special:
- Supply reality: While restrictions such as high minimum order quantities (MoQ) were being discussed for Sea-Gull's ST-19 series, Studio Underd0g secured a contract with Sea-Gull and guaranteed delivery of the ST-1901B.
- Technical difference: The ST-1901B comes with differences such as a black main plate and a swan neck regulator, and in GB, the regulation is adjusted to a -10/+15 sec/day band (Monochrome Watches notes in its article that this is an improvement compared to the previous wider tolerance band).
From a collector's perspective, this means: the 01SERIES has gone beyond being "just a color microbrand chronograph". more predictable performance ve stronger background He is approaching his claim.
Who is the 02SERIES designed for, and what does it offer in terms of "field watch" capabilities?
02SERIES takes the aesthetic of 1940s military field clocks, known as the "Dirty Dozen," and updates it with Studio Underd0g's signature play of color and materials.
Key technical/practical points:
- Dimensions: 37mm diameter, 12mm thickness, 46mm lug-to-lug, 18mm lug.
- Water resistance: 10 ATM (daily use + more comfortable “wet” scenarios; however, it's important to follow brand/service instructions).
- Mechanism: İsviçre Sellita SW210-1 Manual winding; 4Hz (28,800), 42-hour power reserve; hacking (second stop); -7/+7 sec/day target.
- Dial architecture: A 1mm sapphire top disc + a sandwich structure on the bottom that provides a "floating" printing effect during the day and strong readability at night, similar to "7x lume".
What is 03SERIES and what does "monopusher" mean?
03SERIES, Studio Underd0g's next-level series: controlled by a single button. monopusher chronograph (Start/stop/reset with a single push button). This changes the feel of using it and requires a different architecture on the mechanism side.
03SERIES Salm0n example:
- Dimensions: 38.5mm diameter, 13.6mm thickness, 44.5mm lug-to-lug, 20mm lug.
- Water resistance: 5 ATMs.
- Mechanism: Sellita SW510 M (cam-operated monopusher), 63-hour power reserve; target of ±5 seconds/day at the manufacturer's stated "Spécial/Elaboré" level.
- Origin context: The use of the SW510 M came to widespread attention through the Project Passion collaboration with H. Moser & Cie., and it fueled the 03SERIES line.
What does "Assembled in Great Britain" actually mean?
This statement indicates that Studio Underd0g assembles its watches in the United Kingdom and subjects them to an independent QC process. The brand's product pages clearly detail steps such as demagnetization in collaboration with Horologium, 3-position speed/performance control, regulation when necessary, and a "report card" included with each watch.
What can you expect in real life when you buy Studio Underd0g watches?
Since most Studio Underd0g watches are hand-wound (01/02/03), the daily routine is as follows:
- You set up 20-40 laps in the morning, creating a "connection" with the watch on your wrist. That's the feeling Benc specifically wants.
- If you use the chronograph frequently (especially the 01 SERIES), you'll notice the power reserve shortening (like 45 hours with the chronograph on).
- With 5 ATM models (01/03) you say “water protection”: hand washing, rain is fine; swimming/showering is risky. Although 10 ATM (02) is more comfortable, the health of the seals and the usage scenario are determining factors for each watch.
Frequently Asked Questions about Studio Underd0g
1) Why do Studio Underd0g watches "never run out" but are still hard to find?
Because the brand opens a "preorder window": during this window, it takes orders with unlimited stock; when the window closes, it switches to the production/delivery plan. So, instead of the situation being "out of stock," it's "window closed."
2) What is the most significant difference between the 01SERIES Gen3 and older 01SERIES models?
In Gen3, the case is thinner (12.9mm), the crown is updated for a better winding feel, the sapphire case back is larger, and the inscription “Assembled in Great Britain” is added to the dial.
3) What exactly is the ST-1901B and how does it differ from the ST-1901/ST19?
The ST-1901B is a bespoke variant exclusive to Studio Underdog. In addition to differences such as a black main plate and swan neck regulator, it targets a -10/+15 sec/day range with regulation in the GB region. Furthermore, as Sea-Gull's supply conditions for the ST-19 tighten, the brand is securing this line through contract.
4) What is the purpose of the "sapphire dial" feature on the 02SERIES?
The 02 SERIES features a 1mm sapphire top disc and a 7x lume scale bottom, aiming for a "floating" effect and strong night readability. This adds a modern layer of materials to the classic field watch form.
5) What does "monopusher" mean in 03SERIES, and is it noticeable in the diary?
Monopusher means controlling the chronograph with a single button. The feel is more “mechanical” and different. The 03SERIES also offers a longer power reserve (63s) and a tighter yaw target (±5 sec/day) with the SW510 M.
6) Is the phrase "Assembled in Great Britain" purely a marketing ploy?
The brand clearly outlines the steps involved in its production process with Horologium, such as independent QC (demagnetization, 3-position check, regulation) and the report card included with each watch. This, at the very least, substantiates its claim of meticulous process.
7) How does the warranty and service work?
According to the FAQ, the brand offers a 2-year warranty with Horologium; emphasizing free service/repair organization for mechanical failures and a global service network. Accidents/damage are generally excluded from coverage.
Also, although Studio Underd0g's Pizza was forgotten, we have to mention that we loved it very much 🙂
