Audemars Piguet Reference 25980AI.OO.D003SU.01 Royal Oak Concept
While you might know Audemars Piguet from the Royal Oak, its place in the world of watchmaking is undeniable. They offer a wide variety of complications, but sometimes developing products based on user desires is a crucial part of this process. Considering that the company's revenue depends on user preferences, it's unlikely to see such watches in the AP market.
The case generally retains the Royal Oak DNA. We're all too familiar with this structure. This material, a combination of Alacrite 602 alloy (with cobalt, chrome, tungsten, and other elements) and titanium bezel, plays a crucial role in durability. But inside, there's more than just a "normal" automatic movement. The dial, too, has chosen a structure that emphasizes complications and watchmaking skills rather than the familiar "face."
Using a tourbillon mechanism certainly elevates the watch to the forefront. But the watch also boasts many other functions, and it wouldn't be wrong to say these are the key features that truly set it apart.
You might not have heard of R/N/H before. To showcase haute horlogerie, AP has added meaning to the watch with this complication. The R/N/H we see here (R = Remontoir, N = Neutral, H = Hands) tells us the position of the crown. Winding? Idle? Setting mode? Is it a strange complication, isn't it?
Looking at the top (12 o'clock), we see the Dynamograph complication. The Dynamograph is a complication that visually communicates the spring's torque level to the wearer. Inside the watch, the spring (mainspring) stores energy. The tighter it is wound, the more torque (rotational force) the spring provides. However, as the spring relaxes, this torque decreases. Too low a torque can affect the movement's proper operation. Too high a torque can cause stress. The Dynamograph indicator indicates whether the spring's torque level is within the appropriate range. In other words, you can determine whether the spring is too weak, too strong, or within the ideal range. Again, isn't it a strange complication?
Looking at the right side (3 o'clock), we see a vertical power reserve indicator. Power reserve designs are usually bracketed. However, AP has chosen a linear, vertical display in this case.
Every aspect of the watch reveals incredible craftsmanship. It truly demonstrates how important and special haute horlogerie is. I love watches, but I love these even more. Learning about things we don't know and exploring new complications is another indicator that the world of watchmaking makes room for new innovations every day.
