Born from a passion for restoration, the silent knight of modern watchmaking: Parmigiani Fleurier
Atahan ErerAuthor
When I first attended the Watches and Wonders trade fair in April 2025, I wandered around with excitement and wide-eyed wonder, seeing many brands and models, both familiar and unfamiliar. One brand I wasn't familiar with at the time, but I was so impressed that I took photos and videos of two different models: the Toric Quantieme Perpetuel and the Tonda PF Skeleton: Parmigiani Fleurier. Later, I started hearing about it more frequently, and I still do.
You can read about the history and production methods of the guilloché dial technique, frequently used by Parmigiani Fleurier, in our guide to guilloché dials.
Parmigiani Fleurier, a leading representative of high watchmaking today, draws its aesthetic inspiration from the worlds of science, art, and architecture. It houses a series of Swiss workshops, each demonstrating the highest level of expertise in its respective field. This structure allows Parmigiani to maintain complete control over the entire production process of all parts, from balance springs and dials to cases and other components, ensuring that every part of each Parmigiani Fleurier watch is manufactured entirely in-house to the highest quality standards . Having given you a brief and appealing introduction to the brand, let's now look at how it all works, the behind-the-scenes aspects.
The Story of Michel Parmigiani
Michel Parmigiani was born and raised in Couvet, a town in the Swiss canton of Neuchâtel, the heart of watchmaking, on December 2, 1950. From an early age, he was interested in both watchmaking and architecture. Michel chose watchmaking. He studied at the Val-de-Travers School of Watchmaking and the Technicum in La Chaux-de-Fonds, where he acquired expertise in watch restoration. This was a crucial turning point for him and would shape his career.
During the height of the quartz crisis, when even brands like Omega and Rolex were producing quartz watches, Michel, at the age of 26, opened his own watchmaking and restoration workshop, Mesure et Art du Temps. The workshop was primarily dedicated to restoration. Michel continued his career by restoring watches for collectors and museums during this difficult period for mechanical watches. At the same time, he created custom watches for clients in his unique style, according to their requests. In this way, he managed to withstand the storm and stay afloat.
By the 80s, both his and his workshop's reputation for restoration had grown. He was known as a restorer of some of history's most important timepieces, restoring valuable timepieces from the Patek Philippe Museum. This recognition would propel him to the next level in his career. Crossing paths with the Landolt family, owners of the Maurice-Yves Sandoz Collection, one of Switzerland's largest pocket watch and automaton collections, sparked the first sparks of Parmigiani Fleurier. Tasked with restoring these important pieces of watchmaking history, Michel also established connections that would support him in pursuing his own dreams. He wanted to harness his own creativity and realize his dreams.
On May 29, 1996, Michel founded his own watchmaking brand, Parmigiani Fleurier, with support from the Sandoz Family Foundation. The story that began with restoration began with his own brand. Michel says that restoration is what inspired him to pursue his dream of creating his own watch.
The Story of Parmigiani Fleurier
Founded in 1996, the brand began to reflect Michel Parmigiani's vision of excellence by combining craftsmanship and watchmaking elegance. The first watch introduced by the brand was the Toric QP Retrograde model. The embossed rings on the case, called gadroons, and the dial with its knurling finish became the design signature of Parmigiani Fleurier watches.
The Birth and Development of the Watchmaking Center
Michel wanted watch components to meet the highest standards. The company set out to become a full-fledged manufacturer, and in 1999, the Sandoz Family Foundation took its first step towards creating a watchmaking center by acquiring Les Artisans Boîtiers , a respected workshop that combined precision engineering and craftsmanship to produce high-quality watch cases. Today, this merger has enabled the company to produce all types of cases, including the most unique ones.
How is it done?
Today, at Parmigiani Fleurirer, cases are first designed in a 3D virtual environment. The designs are then machine-processed and roughly translated into real life. From there, the craftsmen step in. Hand-crafted processes include shaping, welding, filing, and more. Finally, the finishing touches are applied, and the cases are ready.
Determined to move forward with independence in production, they acquired Atokalpa, a company specializing in gears, pinions, and micro-gear mechanisms, in 2001. Atokalpa manufactures all the components within a mechanism—a collection of many components we call the gear train. In other words, Parmigiani Fleurier has essentially acquired a business that already handles multiple tasks within a single company. It's a wild card, of sorts.
Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier was founded in 2003. The company was established to develop high-end movements with superior technology and finishes for Parmigiani Fleurier watches. The company's R&D department is responsible for the production of a wide variety of complex calibers. They produce manual and automatic movements, as well as additional modules. The hand-decoration of each movement, including finishes such as bevelling , ensures a highly aesthetic appearance and exquisite surface quality.
Over time, the company became able to manufacture components such as balance wheels, balance springs, forks/anchors, and escapement wheels in-house. In 2005, they acquired Elwin, a company specializing in bar turning, and now they can supply all movement components. Elwin is known for its expertise in the production of digitally controlled bar turning machines and software development. Companies like Elwin and Atokalpa don't just contribute to the craftsmanship. Being companies with the ability to develop internally allows them to remain constantly current and competitive through innovation, newly developed machines, and software.
With the establishment of Quadrance et Habillage in December 2005, watchmaking centers expanded further and increased their independence in production. Dials with exquisite craftsmanship now come to life under this roof. Depending on the model, they can be left plain or guilloché. Coloring and surface treatments are then applied.
Following these processes, Parmigiani Fleurier now has the ability to produce its watches, from conception to finished product, under a single watchmaking center comprised of artisan Swiss companies under the umbrella of the Sandoz Family Foundation. This is one of the elements that distinguishes the brand and makes it stand out.
At this point, it should be noted that these five sister brands that have become part of Parmigiani Fleurier, which I mentioned above, primarily serve Parmigiani Fleurier, but also serve other high-end brands.
New Era: Guido Terreni
Over the years, Parmigiani Fleurier has continued to produce a variety of watches, collaborating with diverse fields ranging from automobiles to music and photography. It has released many groundbreaking models and received awards. Time has passed and conditions have changed, but the brand has taken a significant step forward. Guido Terreni, with over 20 years of experience in the industry, joined Parmigiani Fleurier in 2021 to understand and adapt to current conditions, to continue Parmigiani's legacy, and to propel the brand forward. As CEO, Guido Terreni oversees the design office. Every watch designed here is transformed into a finished watch concept, which is then brought to life by the teams at the watchmaking center. Guido, who is well-versed in the latest luxury trends and dynamics, and Michel, who possesses the brand's heritage and possesses the knowledge, experience, and mastery, strive to propel the brand forward.
This article has laid the groundwork and given us a glimpse into the brand's story. We'll discuss the details of Parmigiani Fleurier models in the next article. Until then, take care.
This is not sponsored content. It is news content.
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