Interview with NAOYA HIDA & Co. Brand
Berk OztoprakAuthor
When we think of Japanese watchmaking, most of us first think of big brands. However, in recent years, another category has captured the hearts of collectors: small, meticulous, and obsessively detail-oriented independent workshops. Naoya Hida & Co. is precisely one of the most refined representatives of this world.
To compare the different production approaches of small, independent workshops, the interview with L'Artisan founder Arnaud De Bal offers a complementary reading.
The brand's NH Type 3B model is one of the most refined examples of Japanese independent watchmaking, and is also featured in Ryan Reynolds' watch collection .
Behind the brand is Naoya Hida, a man who has dedicated decades to introducing Swiss watch brands to Japan and has intimately experienced vintage, neo-vintage, and modern timepieces. After years of designing limited editions for other brands, Hida forged his own path with the awareness that "my ideal watch doesn't exist," and is now known for its hand-engraved indexes, German and Argentium silver dials, compact case sizes, and direct relationship with collectors.
Here at Bersenti, we wanted to hear from founder Naoya Hida about both the brand's origins and the mindset behind the NH TYPE series. In this written interview, we discussed how Naoya Hida & Co. came to be, its design inspirations, the technical challenges of complications like the perpetual calendar in the Type 6, the advantages and disadvantages of being a small brand, and its future plans.
Below you can find Naoya Hida's answers to our questions.
• How important are hand-carved (hand-engraved) details to you? Why do you prefer using them?
I worked with Breguet in the late 90s, before it was acquired by the Swatch Group. During that time, I had the opportunity to see many late 18th- and 19th-century guilloché dials up close in Paris and La Chaux-de-Fonds. The depth and three-dimensional effect of those dials left a strong impression on me.
When I met Keisuke Kano in 2012, I asked him if it was possible to hand-engrave indices on a wristwatch-sized dial. He said, "Yes, it's possible"—and we've been using hand-engraved indices on every watch we make ever since.
• Why do you prefer materials like German silver or Argentium silver for your dials? What are the most important characteristics of these materials in your opinion?
I love the distinctive tone and texture of German silver. As for Argentium silver, we used it for the first time this year in the NH TYPE 6A model. It's more expensive than German silver, but it has a slightly brighter tone, a very delicate surface feel, and excellent workability. All these qualities made it the perfect choice for that model.
• What are your priority criteria for a watch to fit well on the wrist/be ergonomic?
All our watches measure under 44mm lug-to-lug. Larger watches can certainly be great, but that's not our style. We'll continue to focus on relatively compact pieces that sit naturally and comfortably on the wrist.
• What technical challenges did you encounter while developing the perpetual calendar mechanism in Type 6?
Our dials are typically thicker than usual to allow sufficient space for hand engraving. So, when we added a perpetual calendar module to the base caliber, overall thickness became a significant consideration. We worked diligently to keep the total case thickness to just 11,5 mm while maintaining the depth and legibility of the dial.
• Do you have any specific plans for international marketing and product promotion in the upcoming period?
For a small brand like ours, word-of-mouth recommendations from collectors who have personally experienced our watches and social media are the most effective tools. We will be exhibiting for the first time at Tokyo Watch Week in early October 2025. While it's a small event, we felt the close contact between manufacturers and collectors was a great fit for us.
• Compared to major brands, what are your advantages and disadvantages?
Our strength lies in our ability to produce a wide variety of watches in small batches for collectors with very specific tastes and to offer them directly. Our one-on-one communication with collectors allows us to stay constantly informed about their feedback. Regarding our weaknesses, we are a small brand, and this naturally brings certain limitations. However, we see this as part of our identity.
• What are your goals as a brand for the next 5-10 years?
We want to expand the range of watches we produce and offer. We currently have ideas, including the NH Type 65, ready; the next step is to create the infrastructure and environment to turn these ideas into reality.
• Are there any new case types, complications, or material experiments you would like to try in future models?
Frankly, most of the designs, movements, and materials that collectors dream of have already been incorporated into our roadmap leading up to the NH TYPE 65. Now it's just a matter of time.
• Are the NAOYA HIDA & Co. team watch collectors? What is your favorite watch/model?
Everyone on the team loves watches, but I'm probably the most active when it comes to collecting. Here are a few pieces from my personal collection:
- MIH Watch (first generation)
- Patek Philippe Ref. 2483
- Breguet Ref. 3210
- Ebel 1911
- Ralph Lauren Slim Classic 38 mm
This is not sponsored content. It is news content.
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